The picture to the right is looking back at the Tan Hill Inn.
Shortly before we left Tan Hill Inn it was still raining and I thought we’d be in for showers throughout the day. Instead we got sunshine and a cool, gentle breeze.
Because richard and my boots were still damp and it was obvious neither of us had boots that would keep out the wet we took the road to Keld instead of the parallel footpath, which undoubtedly would have been waterlogged from the previous day’s rain.
The knee wasn’t playing up so with The Who’s Quadrophenia playing on the MP3 player I left the other two taking photographs and strode out. At some point on the road to Keld Tracey, landlady of the Tan Hill Inn, pulled alongside and wished me well for the rest of the walk before taking off down the road like a true local.
Three quarters of the way to Keld, in the middle of The Who’s Who’s Next album the batteries ran out. Checking my pockets I discovered that not only had I left spare batteries in my room at Tan Hill, but far more importantly that’s where the black stone I’d picked up at St. Bees Head. It’s traditional to carry one from one side of the country to the other. Didn’t feel too happy about that.
It’s always been agreed that if one of us is in front and gets to a point where he isn’t sure which way to go then he’ll wait for the other two. So when I got to Keld I checked out how to get onto the footpath. It seemed straightforward so off I went out through the back of Keld, crossed The Swale, climbed the bank and found Clive sat on a bench with Richard joining me on the footpath.
It turns out they’d cut off a corner, saving about a mile, and we’d reached that point almost simultaneously. From there we pressed on down Swaledale and stopped by the banks of the Swale for lunch.
Who should stop by but the two women we’d guided into Kirkby Stephen the day before yesterday. We asked where they’d stayed last night and it turns out they’d got as far as Nine Standards, and then turned back to Kirkby Stephen due to the atrocious weather.
About 2.30pm we reached Gunnerside and stopped for a cream tea; this had been planned in January when we spotted it passing through on our reccy.
Most of the rest of the journey passed through Swaledale’s meadows and ridiculously narrow stone wall stiles. We arrived in Reeth at 5.30pm, changed and took a look round the village. Later we went for a meal at The Black Bull where I had a totally forgetable curry. Then back to the BB for an early night.